When was frosty hesson born

There are some people that you meet in life who you know are special right away. Envision what you want to accomplish. Live with joy and purpose. Born in San Francisco and raised in Hayward, Hesson has fond memories of growing up in s and early '60's, despite a turbulent youth. I had no fear of the water, no matter how deep. I remember the first time I jumped into the ocean and the thrill of being carried by the waves.

From that moment on, I was hooked. He also dreamed of becoming a coach. Hesson was offered a full college scholarship. I used to see them hanging out at The Point. They were talking story all the time. Frosty cared a lot about Jay as a person and was concerned in an intelligent way. They had a rare and unique friendship.

Frosty is an awesome guy. There is also a trio of Laughing Buddha statues prominently situated throughout his yard. Based on a real-life Chinese monk—Budai—who wandered the world in poverty but with a good and loving character , the Laughing Buddha is a symbol of happiness and the wisdom of contentment in Asian cultures. He has always found a way to give of himself, not only to those close to him, but to the world at large. And through it all, he has maintained his balance and his sense of humor.

He is smiling, always smiling—a modern day version of Budai. Hesson smiles. Tears well up in his eyes. There is a passage in his memoir when he returns home from a camping trip in Big Sur with his children, only to discover that his son-like friend, Jay, had died half way around the world. He was devastated. There is a pause. We were quiet for moment—a very comfortable silence.

I was thinking about the big global wave that was about to hit Hesson with the release of the film and the book. I sensed very surely that, just like the young James Michael Moriarity, he would be ready for the ride of his life.

There we were, two old frosty-haired dogs sitting in the Pleasure Point sun, and for all our scars, the laughing gods of the universe were smiling down on us. I got up to leave. Moriarity died a day before his 23rd birthday on Friday, June 15, , in the Indian Ocean off the coast of the island Lohifushi in the Maldives, drowning in a freediving accident. In Lohifushi for an O'Neill photo shoot, he went free-diving alone but was not seen after.

One may also ask, what happens in Chasing Mavericks? This ignites his passion for the sport. One morning, Jay Jonny Weston , now 15, sees Frosty leaving early and hitches a ride on his van. The Scottish actor, who stars as real-life surfer Frosty Hesson in Chasing Mavericks , described his surfing skills as non-existent before he started working on the film.

The film is based on the true story of surfing legend Jay Moriarity Jonny Weston and his friendship with Frosty Hesson Gerard Butler in a bushy blond hairdo. Who is the youngest person to surf Mavericks? Among them was Jay Moriarity, 16, who had only surfed Mavericks a few times and was the youngest person Mr. Clark had ever seen challenge the spot. It's the best feeling ever. But his flashiest moment at Mavericks would only come a few eight months later, a few days before Christmas.

On December 19, , Jay woke up early, loaded his mother's pickup with two foot surfboards, and took off for Mavericks. The wind was blowing strong, and Moriarity knew that he had to stay low to get through it. Jay paddled out and picked the one. However, as he was trying to drop into the abyss, he got caught in the lip by the offshore wind, and free fell 40 feet into the flats.

Jay remained true to himself despite all the attention he got from the media and the surfing fans. He kept surfing and spreading the stoke through the O'Neill Surf Academy. It's a sport because you can compete with it, and it's spiritual because it's just you and Mother Nature. For me, it's very spiritual. Jay married his long-time girlfriend, Kim, in She was two years older and was with him since the mentoring days with "Frosty" Hesson.

And it was one of his best rides, too - a deep, dangerous ride on a monstrous tube witness by Mavericks pioneer Jeff Clark and Mike Gerhardt.